Day 36 (23 August) – Cairns (First City Caravilla – Cairns; Chores & Dinner at Splash [again])
Today was a day for more chores – fixing my computer keyboard, finding our water hose had a leak and was too short (I had to re-route the hose as we’d used the neighbour’s taps), so a new hose had to be fitted. I borrowed a 19mm socket spanner from our neighbour and inflated Lucie’s spare tyre.
We went to Cairns Central for a few more items and Lyn arranged to have her eyes tested and then ordered two pairs of glasses. They’ll be ready when we return from the Cape Tour.
An early dinner at Splash where we met Angela, the mistress’d or host or something. Angela used to live in Point Lonsdale and so we spent several minutes talking about Lonnie with her. The staff at Splash are very attentive, great meals again and we’d highly recommend it for a meal. Angela said it’s the best seafood restaurant in Carins, which we’d support.
Back to the motorhome to see the Melbourne Demons second team (missing 4 of their best 5 players) get beaten by Collingwood. So, both sides out of the finals now – no need for a trip back to Melbourne for the Grand Final and I can now focus on the Storm!!
Day 37 (24 August) – Cairns (First City Caravilla – Cairns); Day 1 of the Cape Tour (Cairns to Port Douglas)
Repack, prepare the motorhome for departure, lots of writing blogs then time to head in to the Shangri La to meet the Cape Crusaders for a 12:30 pick up.
We met Isabelle, our tour host, and Adam, the coach driver, loaded our bags onto the coach and then headed to our next stop – the airport. Two more couples joined our party at the airport then a trip up the highway to Port Douglas where we met the last couple to join the group. We were taken up to the lookout and then back for a walk through the town before being taken to the Sheraton Grand Mirage Resort for our first tour night. Lyn had a swim in the enormous pool surrounding the buildings before we met the others for dinner. Chaotic pre dinner drinks as they had to record all drinks taken and there was only one waiter. Dinner was good and we started the first of many post dinner night talk sessions before heading to bed.
Day 38 (25 August) – Day 2 of the Cape Tour (Port Douglas to Daintree National Park)
Breakfast at 06:30 before a 07:45 departure. We stopped 2 minutes down the road for the mandatory safety briefing before heading North to the Mossman Gorge Centre in the Daintree National Park. Mossman Gorge has changed from allowing visitors to walk in through the Indigenous community to running a shuttle bus from the centre in to the beginning of the guided walk. Our bus was driven by Mooksy – a 15 scar elder. Scars are obtained by developing skills and capabilities, 10 can be obtained in their own tribe, then they travel to other tribes to achieve more. Mooksy was the local ‘medicine man’ and was ‘mentoring’ (my word) Ben, who was the guide for our walk. Ben had achieved 2 scars and conducted the smoking ceremony which welcomed us to the area before the walk and talk began. Ben showed us the men’s sacred place where he had experienced one of the local spirits as a boy and which signified the start of his journey under Mooksy’s guidance.
We were shown a number of plants in the area, the Mossman River, then we circled around the woman’s sacred place which was an area of the river that had a deeper blue colour. We were also shown a number of plants that had properties including one that provided a cleaning lather and could be used continuously to get the lather. The broad-leafed plant had 4 uses including cleaning, toothbrush and fragrances. Around halfway through the walk I joined Ben at the front of the group and asked him some questions about his experiences. We seemed to develop a bond; he shared some stories with me as we walked and asked me not to share with others. I felt very honoured to be respected and have this information shared with me. At the end of the walk, we had tea around the spirit carving near the bus and as I shared some of my experiences with Ben. Ben told me he was scheduled to do the afternoon walk and his Aunty had told him to change with her so he could do the morning walk. He said to me that he felt that was a sign and graciously suggested that I was similar to Mooksy and him. It was an unbelievable and unforgettable experience and, to me, signified an appropriate and positive start to our journey North.
Leaving Mossman Gorge, we took a 1-hour cruise down the Daintree River and back, observing wildlife and seeing several crocodiles, including a small one of about 30 cm and Scarface, a 3.5 m old inhabitant of the river.
We had lunch at a small café where they used an extensive array of locally grown fruit and vegetables as we were provided with a talk by one of the owners on the different ingredients in our meal.
Next onto the Daintree Rainforest Heritage Conservation property owned by Neil, our tour guide. He pointed out some amazingly camouflaged insects and a lizard and then provided an extensive description of the flora and fauna in this unique location. He explained there are now 73 introduced pest species and only around a total of 1000 wild cassowaries. The major problem was feral pigs and he said there were over 35,000 in this area. The pig problem was mentioned many times in the walk with him. He also explained how the indigenous people kept the land sustainable even killing pythons and crocodiles but understanding the need to keep the environment in balance. Neil was passionate about this environment and it was clear from his talk that he respected the Indigenous management of the land and was frustrated with the current land management imposed by various governments. In particular he was clearly frustrated about the lack of focus on removing the feral pigs. As we finished the walk, we came close to a cassowary with his one chick. We were told there were 3 chicks a few days ago but the family was down to one now. We purchased Neil’s book and donated it for the use of the travellers in the Outback Spirit #4 coach.
We continued North to the Raintree Heritage Lodge and Spa for the evening where we celebrated Jan’s big 70th birthday.
This day had a real connective feel to me with both the main guides and I felt extremely lucky to have started the tour in such a positive manner.
Day 39 (26 August) – Day 3 of the Cape Tour (Daintree National Park to Cooktown)
Lyn’s birthday and I hadn’t arranged anything – not quite right as Vicky, our tour organiser and major driver of activities, had arranged celebrations for Jan the previous day and Lyn today for activities over dinner.
Today we had two route options – the 4WD Bloomfield Track or the inland highway if the track was too difficult or closed. We had some very slight rain the day before and none overnight, so we were able to take the Bloomfield Track. On leaving the overnight stay we saw another cassowary father with 2 chicks walking across the road which was a pleasant bonus. Just a short drive to Cape Tribulation with a walk down to Myall Beach. Lyn and I had travelled up this far before but couldn’t go any further as the road to Cooktown wasn’t as good around 30 years previously. For Lyn’s birthday, and whilst she was down on the beach, we had a call from James, Charlotte, Wren and Luna – what a great and pleasant surprise to chat with them. Last time we were here at Myall Beach, there were cassowaries walking around the centre and buildings – none to be seen this time though.
Leaving Myall Beach, we travelled further along the Bloomfield Track. The track was quite dry, very step in parts and, in some areas, the road had been paved using slotted concrete to provide better traction. Pete, Vicki’s husband, asked if I thought his 4WD could make the trip and, based on the road condition, I thought he’d have no problems. The Bloomfield Track finished at the Bloomfield River where we visited the Bloomfield Falls before continuing on to the Lion’s Den Hotel for lunch. The Lion’s Den is another iconic outback pub, filled with memorabilia and writing all over the walls. Apparently in earlier times, the walls were used to record the accounts of the locals as they had drinks or paid off their tabs. It was a very busy pub as this appeared to be the Southernmost part of the road where caravans can travel without needing 4WD, when heading South towards the Bloomfield Track.
Next, up Shiptons Track Road to the Mulligan Highway and into Cooktown. We were dropped off at the Museum to be given a talk about Cook and his adventures in Cooktown. The messages seem to be that Cook was ahead of his time in terms of dealing with indigenous people and his attitudes to on-board health and safety. As an example, none of his crew died of scurvy although scurvy was very common aboard ship around that period. We were also told about the Reconciliation Rocks where Cook and one of the local elders had managed to avert a potentially dangerous situation due to a misunderstanding about each other’s culture.
I left the museum and went into town to get something for Lyn as I felt a little guilty that I didn’t have anything. A brief walk down the street and into the Post Office where the queue was several groups long. I had to be back at the Museum for the coach pickup, so I headed up to the Croc Tent souvenir shop and bought a card. I asked the store-keeper for a pen and she said they are for sale over in the corner. She definitely didn’t want to lend me one (finally letting me borrow one) and started trying to sell me a present for Lyn. “We have lots of gifts here” (thanks I’m OK); What does she like?” (jewellery); “We have lots of jewellery available” (thanks, I’ve got to get to the bus); “why don’t you come back later – we’ve got lots of gifts and jewellery” (thanks, I’ve got to go).
After the bus dropped us off at the Sovereign Resort Hotel, Lyn and I went for a walk down to the Resolution Rocks and avoided the Croc Tent gift shop. We did get to the local newsagency and I bought some party poppers for the evening dinner and Lyn’s birthday.
We were given a sunset tour up to the local Grassy Hill lookout where we enjoyed a sunset over Cooktown at a parking area on the way back down.
A swim before dinner and then birthday celebrations during dinner. The party poppers I’d bought were the loudest I’ve ever experienced, to the point that our ears were ringing after they had been deployed. A great evening then preparations for the next day’s trip to Lotus Bird Lodge.
Day 40 (27 August) – Day 4 of the Cape Tour (Cooktown to Lotus Bird Lodge)
Breakfast at 07:00 before a 07:45 departure again. We left Cooktown using Battle Camp Road where we travelled to all the “Lauras”. The first stop was Old Laura Homestead which was a very run-down site. It was originally maintained by a volunteer group before the Queensland government took over management and created a natural park around the area. Needless to say, the upkeep has significantly deteriorated over the intervening years.
Our next stop in Laura was the Aboriginal Cultural Centre where we picked up our guide, Roy, who took us up into the hills behind Laura to the Quinkan Split Rock Art Site. The paintings were dated back to 13,500 to 14,000 years ago and featured a number of animals, people and spirits. It was fascinating to see the quality of art that was still able to be viewed. This was probably because the site was only found a few years ago when the area was being surveyed to put in a road. We then had a film in the cultural centre of the rock art, various uses of the flora and fauna and a background to the area before having lunch on the cultural centre veranda, which was prepared by our guide Isabelle.
The next step of the journey was through the Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park where we crossed areas of savannah and multiple creek crossings. We had a few stops along the way to stretch our legs or as we’d see something of interest – birds, trees and natural features. We had afternoon tea at the Red Lily Lagoon and then moved on to the Nifold plain which featured fantastic magnetic termite mounds (aligned North-South) and were told that later on the trip we’d see cathedral termite mounds.
We arrived late in the afternoon at the Lotus Bird Lodge, now owned by Outback Spirit and our home for the next 2 nights.
A welcome by the man in charge, Dan, and his 2iC, Michael, before we were all weighed by Nathan, the helicopter pilot for our flight the next day and we were then given our cabin allocations. Lyn and I were very fortunate to be put in the Galah “suite” – the closest to the main community area (which housed the WiFi). Fortunately, we could see the WiFi transmitter around 5 metres from our cabin and had excellent reception. Others in the tour group weren’t able to access WiFi or any mobile services.
Dinner in the community area and finding out which flight we were allocated the next day for our 45-minute helicopter flight over to Princess Charlotte Bay and back.
We had a raucous dinner as a number of couples were doing their washing in the only machine available and that had a 40-minute cycle. This evening, it was generally the men doing the washing and coming back with extra clothes or missing some. Thankfully all was sorted out the following morning.
Day 41 (28 August) – Day 5 of the Cape Tour (Lotus Bird Lodge)
Breakfast at 07:30 with the first helicopter flight leaving at 09:00. There was also a nature walk around the billabong that the camp was located on that left at 08:30.
The first flight included Shelley who was very nervous and had not been in a helicopter before. As Nathan landed, ready to take us up, Shelley got out and did a dance as she left the aircraft. She had thoroughly enjoyed the experience and seemed to be ecstatic after overcoming her fears and completing the flight.
I was on the second flight of the day, due to leave at 10:00 and so wandered down to the helipad with my own Bose A20 aviation headset and my old aviation iPad. I’d also put my mobile phone in my back pocket and my GoPro in my pants pocket so I’d be prepared for the best photo opportunities. As we approached the helicopter, our pilot Nathan said “This is a first – someone with their own headset”. I was lucky enough to be allocated the left-hand front seat which was the same side as I’d normally sit as a fixed wing pilot. My two fellow flight members, Axy and Rob, were put in the back seat, strapped in, and given headsets. As we took off, I found my headset wasn’t set to voice activation and so I had to push a button on the side of the headset to talk to the others which I found quite challenging.
Away we went, flying at 600’ to one of the local lagoons where Nathan said there were many crocodiles. It was hard to see them, and he said we’d stop by on the way back. Flying over creeks, lagoons, billabongs and lakes, circling to see wild pigs, crocodiles, cattle and multiple bird species then heading up towards Princess Charlotte Bay, where we climbed to 2000’ to get a different perspective of the landscape. As we were returning, we passed the boat ramp on Saltwater Creek where we descended to 600’ whilst returning towards Lotus Bird Lodge.
I’d been tracking our course using my OzRunways aviation app, which I noticed Nathan was using as well. I’d spoken to him the night before, told him that I’d just got a new plane and had a chat about loading the helicopter for the flights. On the way back he said to me “If I guess the registration of your plane, will you give me $1,000.00?”, I said “Yes”. He said, “Is it Echo Sierra Alpha (ESA)”, I said “No, it’s Tango Tango Yankee (TTY).” I told him that ESA was the Cessna 172 that I normally fly and has a glass cockpit (touch screens with advanced navigation features, auto pilot and a Lynx ADSB transponder). He had seen on the OzRunways screen that ESA (my iPad) was tracking with the helicopter and had deduced that it was my plane. A great try but no money for Nathan. It was great being up front and having aviation discussions with him, although I was conscious of the two in the back who wouldn’t be getting much value from our discussions. The overall view from our flight members at the end of the trip was extremely positive.
The rest of the day was more relaxing day as members of the tour caught up with sleep, took walks or, in my case, transferred photos, did some admin work and updated the blog.
Lyn had her helicopter ride just after lunch and I had an interesting conversation with a couple of the ladies including Sam who regaled us with stories of criminals and horror stories with events that she was intimately familiar with.
I set up a Dropbox account for the group – CapeCrusadersAug2024 – and pulled out an earlier email with the email address for most people and invited them to join the Dropbox account. It’s easier with Dropbox as sending files is often not possible due to file size. We had been doing a lot of Airdrops, which is a great method at the time but a little haphazard and doesn’t have permanent availability.
A 16:30 walk around the lagoon next to the lodge conducted by Isabelle then a relatively quiet night. The meals at the Lotus Bird Lodge were excellent.
Day 42 (29 August) – Day 6 of the Cape Tour (Lotus Bird Lodge to Weipa)
Breakfast at 07:30 again with an 08:00 start towards Weipa via Coen.
The first stop was the Musgrave Telegraph office where we were shown a freshwater crocodile by Adam. I found an interesting tanks with the distances to all the major FNQ centres as we were about to leave.
A number of stops along the way with lunch at the Archer River Roadhouse. The Roadhouse is another of the iconic pubs around the Australian bush with writing all over the walls and stickers everywhere. Apparently, the locals used to write their tabs on the wall updating their purchases and deposits – EFTPOS seems a bit more reliable.
Coen has a very interesting Hotel that I think used to be called the ‘Exchange Hotel’ but someone had added an ‘S’ at the front of the name. There were a number of jokes about people going in and coming out – especially where they went in and out twice and ended up the same.
After a look at the shipping terminal at Weipa, we arrived at the Albatross Bay Hotel fairly early, in time for a walk to the local shops and back.
Manners dictate that a man should walk on the roadside of the footpath to take any splashes from passing cars. Here I walked on the beach/creek side to ward off marauding crocodiles.
Sunset over water in Queensland is unusual so we had to watch the sunset from our deck before dinner.
I disappeared during dinner to watch the Storm reserves (missing around a dozen top players) who almost caused an upset against the Cowboys. There was a fair bit of noise in the bar when North Queensland scored.
Day 43 (30 August) – Day 7 of the Cape Tour (Weipa to Moreton Telegraph Station)
Breakfast then a trip to Red Sands Beach, over the river and north of the town. The beach has bauxite balls on the beach. The bauxite is a white substance covered in the red iron oxide. By applying electricity, aluminium is produced. Bauxite is strip mined by removing the top layer of vegetation then scooping off then next layer containing the bauxite to a depth of up to 5 m. After the mining is done the top layer is meant to be restored and the vegetation returned.
This concludes week 6 and so to week 7.
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