V-ELSIE*: Week 8 – Derby (29 June 2025) to Kunanurra (5 July 2025) (* = not fully checked or edited yet)

Day 50 (29 June) – Derby (Another beautiful morning, a bit of wind – up to 28o during the day in Derby)

I spent a fair bit of time trying to get my computer to work better. I finally copied all my important files to a USB drive – around 4 hours of copying.

We decided to try the Gibb River Road and on the way out visited the Boab Prison Tree. A dark time in our past, as most countries have, where blackbirders would round up aboriginies to work on thestations or pearl farms in the area. The prison tree was massive and worth a look.

Next we headed onto the Gibb River Road where we checked the signs for road status. The signs told us the road was open all the way through and suitable for all vehicles. SO off we went, after around 20 km we decided that there wasn’t much to see, and so headed back to the signs at the start of the road. As we arrived there was a Kimberey Safari bus that we’d seen inflating their tyres at the prison tree (after leaving the Gibb River Road). I asked the drived about the status of the road and was told it was OK to go through, there were river corssings and if the vehicle had reasonable ground clearance it would be OK. Lyn and I decided not to put Elsie through the experience towing Lucie and that we’d use the main highway.

So, back to town via the golf course (in the middle of a racetrack) where we saw that there was a social 9-hole game starting at 15:00 and to be there by 14:30. Next, down to the Jetty to have a look and wonder at the clear allowance for tide height under the jetty. Next we visited the ‘Sculptures in the Marsh’ on the edge of the dry marsh beds around town. SOme interesting sculptures done a couple of years ago.

As we decided not to go down the Gibb River Road, I was able to watch the Storm beat the Sharks while working on my computer again. A close game for the first three quarters then the Storm put the Sharks away – well done again and a grat game by Kafusi. Lyn had done a load of laundry while I was watching the game and working on the computer and had put the washing out on the line.

We decided to head to the golf club to play in the social event, if possible. As we arrived there was a band playing, many people at the front of the club and we found the game started at 14:30 in winter. Fortunately we were able to join in and play with Mark and Lola as a team against Julie, Al and Ken from hole 5 (near the other side of the course) in a social ambrose. It was a lot of fun, we enjoyed the game and comapny and managed to win the day with a par round of 36 and nett of 29.7. We were given a bag of chips and a bag of sweets each for winning. (The eighth place getters got a bag of chips each also!!).

Back to the motorhome where Lyn brought in the washing. We then tried to find a restaurant and finally after much searching arrived back at the Spinifex Hotel for dinner.

More work on the computer where I had to completely reset it (without full success) and start to load all programs back on. I’m going to have to wait until we are back to fix it properly. The hardest is to work on photos and videos so they may not be up to date during the rest of our travels unless I can get things working better.

Day 51 (30 June) – Derby to Fitzroy Crossing (Fitzroy River Lodge) (Another beautiful morning, no wind – up to 26o during the day in the Kimberley region – 269 km)

An hour and a half just putting the last few days activities in this blog. Then, time to start preparing to leave.

We said we’d visit Mark’s gallery (Norval Gallery) on the way out so that was our first stop before refuelling and then heading off to the main highway to Fitzroy River. What a delight – I wasn’t expecting anything like the quality and professionalism of the Norval Gallery. Mark and Mary have done a fantastic job of bringing artistic culture and capabilities to the Derby area. It was fascinating to see all the works on display and, for once, not be discouraged from taking photos. I had a unique experience with an indigenous guide at Mossman Gorge when we did the Eastern side of Australia trip and have been fascinated by the indigenous stories and culture ever since. Mark gave us a guided tour and told us about the 8000 year old Wandjina who created the rock paintings in their image and then left, leaving their spirits in the rocks. Understanding that the reverence of the spirits is a religion, theirs is the oldest continuing religion in the wqorld. The Gyorn Gyorn paintings from the area are 20,000 years old as well. The paintings and artwork (Mark has 6 of the 8 sculptures in the “Sculptures in the Marsh” series we saw the previous day) were brilliant. It is also encouraging to hear how Mark and Mary have worked with the local indigenous people helping with their artwork and as teachers in the area. We found a gem in Derby and regretted not being able to spend more time there. As we left, Lyn and I thought it was fate that enabled us to play golf in Mark’s team the previous evening and to learn about the gallery. We purchased one of the art pieces done by one of the local artists, Sarah Ambi.

Next, refuelling at the BP station as we were leaving town, a stop for lunch at a parking bay around 100 km short of Fitzroy Crossing then on to the Fitzroy River Lodge camping gorund where we set up and booked a 17:30 dinner in the restaurant.

We arrived at the restaurant and was shown to our table by Laura and then handed over to Jim, our waiter for the evening. Jim ran through the options as we sat down. We sat next to Peter, who has returned to the area to assist the group of communities who run the Fitzroy River Lodge as the Finance Director. It was fascinating to hear his background, the travels and work he has undertaken and his desire to return to the Kimberley region to give back to the local communities while his wife stays in Margaret River. Jim looked after us for the evening, Lyn had the Barramundi and I had the beef curry. I was told there was only 5 serves available then it would be chicken curry. Fortunately we arrive early and so I was able to order and have the beef. A great meal. We have found the Fitzroy River Lodge to be engaging and woth visiting. It seems a great place and is still recovering from the recent floods.

Day 52 (1 July) – Fitzroy Crossing (Another beautiful morning, no wind – up to 28o during the day in the Kimberley region)

First to the Information Centre to get some ideas of where to go. Our guide suggested Geike Gorge, the Crossing Hotel and the Brooking Channel footbridge. We asked about the Tunnel Creek Walk and the Windjana Gorge and were told that would be a full day trip to do them comfortably.

We headed to the Crossing Hotel and then the Brooking Channel footbridge – interesting to have a look at. It’s amazing to think that people crossed the Fitzroy River at the crossing. We could see the entry and exit points and the fairly wide (so probably shallow) part of the river there. We then continued on to the Geike Gorge Boat Ramp. The $3 million ramp was washed a way and we were warned about the unstable cliffs in the area. The gorge was good to see although we didn’t walk too far along the river to the gorge but just checked it out from near the car park. We stopped to have a look at the airport on the way back to the motorhome aa I was looking to refuel the Jimny before our afternoon drive.

We grabbed some lunch and then headed 42 km back towards Derby to the turn off to Tunnel Creek. The Leopold Downs Road took us to the Tunnel Falls Walk carpark. It was around 70km of 4WD track through some very interesting country and across fairly challenging roads. we finally made it to the carpark and found that, to get through the tunnel, you had to wade through the creek up to chest height. We hadn’t brought bathers or shoes (I did bring a good light though). I put on my bike shorts, took my socks off and put on some new waterproof open mesh shoes I’d got and then left on my Kathmandu shirt. Lyn put on her booties and wetsuit pants. We grabbed our phones and my light and heade din towards the cave. It was difficult getting in and we crossed the first bit of water to an area before the deep section. Lyn decided to stay there and I continued on. It did get to fairly hogh on my chest as I waded through, then along the creek bank inside the tunnel. It was significantly longer than I expected with a collapsed section letting in light about halfway, another tunnel section then out into an area with a tree surrounded pool. I had heard about some rock art if you turned left leaving the cave. I had a look and took some photos but couldn’t make out anything really. As it was quite a distance from where I’d left Lyn, I moved fairly quickly through the cave and back, finally getting back to Lyn (who had tried to call but no signal inside the cave). We managed to get ouot although the entrance and exit was fairly difficult to navigate. It’s getting harder and harder to clamber over rocks and through narrow passages these days.

We changed out of the wet things and Lyn drove back for the first part of the return journey, doing a water crossing through one of the creeks along the road. We finally made it back to the highway, refuelled at the same service station (you have to leave your licence as security before being allowed to use the pumps and get the petrol), and made it back to camp.

Dinner in the restaurant with Millie serving us. The service was fairly slow towards the end aas the restaurant filled up. Nice Barramundi though and we had dessert and coffee again.

Back to the motorhome where I prepared the Jimny for departure and we put away all the external furniture. We’d been warned about securing everything in this region and even in the middle of the campground.

Day 53 (2 July) – Fitzroy Crossing to Pumululu (Bungle Bungle Caravan Park & Tour Company) (Another beautiful morning, no wind – up to 28o during the day in the Kimberley region)

We finished preparing to leave and headed towards Halls Creek on our way to Pumululu.


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